Shaving 101 May 04 2013

 1. “I like to get a square shape out of most guys,” says Kiehl's Spa 1851 Master Barber Justin Virgil. “It’s an inherently masculine shape that gives guys an edge.”
2. If you have an oblong or oval face shape, trim your hairs closer on the underside of your chin, but leave a bit of length on your cheeks. Round face? Create length by leaving more hair on your chin and less on your cheeks.
3. Using a trimmer with a No. 1 guard, taper the hair on your neck starting just above your Adam’s apple.
4. Trim near the top of your cheeks, if necessary, creating a line parallel to your jaw line.
5. Lastly, comb down your moustache and trim hairs that fall below your lip line using scissors or a trimmer.
6. Shampoo and condition your beard every day, just like your hair.
7. Once a week, or as needed, use a trimmer with a long guard to get rid of stray hairs. Then trim your neckline with a small guard starting at your Adam’s apple.
8. If necessary, use a razor on your neck between your collarbone and your Adam’s apple, being mindful of which way the hair is growing.
9. Taper, or fade, your neckline for a more natural look and less maintenance in the future.
10. Use a beard oil daily to soften your hairs and add a scent, if desired.
11. Comb your beard when in the shower to exfoliate the skin beneath your facial hair and to straighten your hairs for easier trimming

1. "The key to a close and comfortable shave every time lies in the preparation, the technique and the aftercare,” says Kiehl's Spa 1851 Master Barber Justin Virgil.
2. First, soften up your skin and hair by showering before you shave or using a pre-shave oil (or both).
3. Lather your whole face and begin shaving in short strokes, moving in the same direction that your hair grows. Note that hair often changes directions on the neck and lower chin areas.
4. If necessary, lather again and make another pass going across the grain.
5. When you’re done, splash your face with icy cold water. “This tightens your skin back up and closes the pores,” says Virgil. “It also soothes the skin.”
6. Store your blade in a bit of preshave oil or use a razor shield product to preserve the life of your razor.
7. Avoid shaving against the grain, as it can cut hair below the skin and cause ingrown hairs or more serious infections, not to mention pain and discomfort.
8. If you’re prone to ingrown hairs or have sensitive skin, use a disposable razor or cartridge no more than five times before switching to a new one. This will maximize results and minimize cuts and irritation, Virgil says


1. To achieve the perfect five o’clock shadow, use an adjustable beard trimmer with the built-in guard all the way back, says celebrity facial hair stylist Craig the Barber. (Clippers with a No. 1 guard work, too)
2. Trim your hair, making multiple passes for consistency
3. Clean up your moustache with a scissors or a precision trimmer, removing any stray hairs.
4. Shave or trim any hair that grows below the top of your Adam’s apple using a razor or a trimmer without a guard.
5. If your stubble grows high up on your cheeks, shave or trim the hair just below your cheekbone parallel to your jaw line.
6. Every 2 - 4 days, or as necessary, repeat steps 1 - 3 maintain a relaxed but tidy look, says Craig the Barber. Any longer, and you’ll be sporting a beard.
7. Run your fingers over your stubble to check for consistency. Make another pass with a trimmer until stubble is even, using even pressure.


1. Prep and shave the areas around your moustache the way you would for a clean shave.
2. “As a rule, don’t give yourself a moustache that’s wider than the corners of your mouth,” says barber and facial hair expert Jacki Brown. For a thin or no upper lip, a large moustache gives the illusion of fuller, more balanced lips, Brown says. If you have fuller lips, a medium, divided moustache works best.
3. If you have thick lips, go for a smaller, more understated moustache; for thin lips, a thick moustache will create the appearance of a strong upper lip, says Brown.
4. Trim any unruly hairs using scissors or clippers, then comb the moustache down and cut hairs that fall below your lip line..
5. The thinner the moustache, the more often you’ll want to maintain it, says Brown. Thicker moustaches can go a bit longer.
6. Leave a small space just above your lip line and just below your nose for a tidier look that won’t overwhelm your face.
7. Keep your moustache soft and smooth by using a beard oil daily.
8. Once a week, trim stray hairs, as well as any that grow below your lip line.
9. Apply wax to your moustache to give it some shape and hold. Wax is also great when adding some personal styling flair.


1. Most guys shave in the shower, says Craig the Barber. It maximizes moisture and makes clean up much easier.
2. First, use clippers with no guard on the shortest possible setting to remove as much hair as possible.
3. Shower first or start with a pre-shave oil to open your pores and soften your follicles. The more moisture on your head, the easier and more comfortable your shave will be.
4. Use a blade with a pivoting head, says Craig the Barber. It’s more comfortable and easier to avoid nicks.
5. Start near the front moving back, making sure to shave with the grain or across it—not against.
6. Run your fingers over your scalp to ensure an even shave. To look for missed spots, stand in front of your bathroom mirror while holding a hand mirror behind your shoulder facing your scalp.
7. End with an after-shave balm or wax to restore moisture.
8. “Most guys don’t realize the most sensitive part of their head is their neck,” says Craig the Barber. “So I like to shave that part last. That way you can focus more and not be so aggressive.”
9. Note the way your hair grows, and be sure to shave with or across the grain. Shaving against can result in painful ingrown hairs or razor bumps.